Landscape design sometimes calls for transplanting trees and shrubs, which is easier than you think. Transplanting can be hard on plants if done incorrectly, but with knowledge of the proper techniques, your trees and shrubs will be happily growing in their new location in no time.
Read on if you want to know how to transplant trees and shrubs correctly.
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The Spruce / Steven Merkel
When to Transplant Trees and Shrubs
The ideal time to transplant a tree or shrub is somewhat dependent on the species. For most trees and shrubs, late winter or early spring is the best time for transplanting. Fall is the second-best time.
However, trees and shrubs with thick, fleshy roots often don't react well to transplanting in the fall. These include magnolias, tulip poplars, oaks, birches, rhododendrons, hemlocks, and flowering dogwoods. These species should be transplanted in the spring instead.
In many climates, frozen ground makes it virtually impossible to move plants in winter. And in summer, transplanting is not advisable, because the weather is simply too hot, which puts too much stress on the plant.
If transplanting during hot weather, provide shade for the plant for about a week. This will keep the plant from wilting and prevent sun scald to the leaves.
Choosing a Location
Before transplanting, research the appropriate sun exposure and soil type for the tree or shrub, and make sure the new location matches. You will also want to discover how much space and how much water it needs.
Your new location should meet the needs of the plant as much as possible. For instance, do not re-locate a plant that craves water next to other plants that prefer dry conditions. Their needs will be incompatible, and the transplant will likely suffer.
How to Transplant Trees and Shrubs
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Garden shovel
- Tarp
- Tape measure
- Loppers
- Garden hose
Materials
- Mulch
Instructions
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The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Calculate the Size of the Root Ball
Estimate the width and depth of the root ball (roots plus soil) by doing a bit of exploratory digging around the plant. The width of the new hole should generally be twice that of the plant's root ball.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Dig the New Hole
Dig your new hole before you dig up the tree or shrub. It's important to move the plant to its new home and get its roots covered as soon as possible after you dig it up.
The longer the roots remain exposed, the more stress that's put on the plant.
When you reach the bottom of the new hole, resist the temptation to break up the soil at the bottom. You might think this will help the plant's roots penetrate deeper, but it actually causes the tree or shrub to sink, inviting rot.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Dig Around the Plant
Begin digging roughly three feet around the perimeter of the tree or shrub. Get a feel for where the central mass of roots lies. The idea is to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible.
With large plants, you might find it hard to move the entire root ball, because it will be very heavy.
It's often okay to cut through some roots on large plants with a sharp shovel or pruners. Be sure to make a clean cut, which helps to prevent disease.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Transfer the Plant to a Tarp
Once you have removed enough soil from around the sides of the plant, you will be able to slip your shovel under it and begin to loosen the plant's grip on the soil below it.
After it is loose, spread a tarp on the ground nearby, and gently move the plant onto the tarp. With larger specimens, you might need two or three people to help lever the root ball out of the ground.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Move the Plant to Its New Hole
Using the tarp as a sled, drag the plant to the new hole. Gently slide it into the hole, and adjust it so it's upright. The plant should be at the same level (or slightly higher) than it was in its old location.
Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole. Firmly tamp down the soil and water as you go to eliminate air pockets, which can cause the plant to shift.
Finally, mound the soil in a ring around the plant, forming a small ditch to catch water. This will help keep the roots watered until the plant becomes established.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
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Care for the Plant
Spread a 3-inch layer of landscape mulch around the transplant. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the base of the tree or shrub to promote air circulation and to discourage rodents from nibbling on the trunk.
Then, water well. Frequent watering is essential when transplanting shrubs and trees, especially during the first summer.
The Spruce / Steven Merkel
Additional Tips for Transplanting Trees and Shrubs
- Root pruning is one technique that is sometimes used to make transplanting large trees or shrubs easier. This process involves severing the outer roots before digging up the plant. The goal is to sever all lateral roots extending out from the tree.
- For trees with trunks larger than roughly three inches in diameter, consider hiring a tree service to move your plant with a motorized spade.
- Large trees generally die if you try to dig them up by hand.
- If a tree or shrub must remain out of the ground for more than a few hours before replanting—which might be the case if you're moving it a long distance—swaddle the root ball tightly in burlap and keep it well-watered until it can be planted.
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What month is the best to transplant trees?
The best month depends on the type of tree. Deciduous trees should be transplanted in early spring or after their leaves drop in fall. Evergreens should be transplanted in early spring or late summer.
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What is the largest tree you can transplant?
There is no specific size that is too large to transplant. However, the larger the tree is, the more likely you will need to hire professional help to get the job done safely and correctly.
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Do trees go into shock when planted?
Trees often go into shock when planted or transplanted incorrectly. Research the needs of your specific tree beforehand, and water it thoroughly after completing the task.