How to Build a Floating Deck

Ground-level floating decks don't need footings, railings, or steps

By
David Beaulieu
David Beaulieu
David Beaulieu

David Beaulieu is a landscaping expert and plant photographer, with 20 years of experience.

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Updated on 04/06/24
Reviewed by
Johnathan Brewer
Johnathan Brewer
Reviewed by Johnathan Brewer
Johnathan C. Brewer II is a licensed general contractor specializing in kitchen, bath remodels, and general construction with two decades of professional experience.
Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board
Fact checked by Alexandra Kay
In This Article
Project Overview
  • Total Time: 8 - 12 hrs
  • Yield: Build floating deck
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $400 to $700

A floating deck is built directly on the ground, either on gravel or on concrete blocks. This proximity to the ground makes a floating deck so easy to build.

Many areas don't require permits for decks below a certain height (such as 30 inches). And, because less material is required, floating decks are less expensive and can be built quickly, making them ideal for DIYers with limited experience.

Floating Deck

 The Spruce

What Is a Floating Deck?

Floating decks, sometimes called freestanding decks, rest on the ground and are not attached to any structure, including your house.

Before You Begin

A building permit is typically not required for a floating ground-level deck, but confirm this with your city's building department.

In many areas, a deck does not need a handrail or stairs if its walking surface is under 30 inches above the ground. However, it's best to keep a floating deck as low as possible to prevent even minor injuries.

Safety Considerations

If you need to dig the site for the deck, call 8-1-1, the national Call Before You Dig hotline, a free service that will mark all underground utility lines on your property.

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What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Shovel
  • Rake
  • Tape measure
  • Carpenter's level
  • Circular saw
  • Drill and drill bits

Materials

  • 9 4 x 8 x 16-inch concrete blocks
  • 3-1/2-inch and 2-inch or 2 1/2-inch deck screws
  • 10 Pressure-treated 2x8s (10 feet long)
  • 2 Pressure-treated 2x8s (12 feet long)
  • 22 Pressure-treated 5/4x6 or 2x6 decking boards (12 feet long)
  • Landscape fabric and gravel (optional)

Instructions

Clear a flat area of lawn (or use a garage floor or driveway) for building the deck frame. If necessary, you can also build the deck on top of the concrete blocks.

Materials needed to build a floating deck

The Spruce / Michela Buttignol

  1. Prepare the Deck Area

    Clear the ground where the deck will be installed. Remove grass and all other organic material, as needed. Rake the ground flat and level. Tamp it firmly with a hand tamp tool. If desired, lay down landscape fabric over the soil and add a layer of gravel to slow down weed growth under the deck.

    landscape fabric
    Installing landscape fabric

  2. Set the Concrete Blocks

    Arrange four concrete blocks in a rectangle so they are 12 feet apart along the long sides of the rectangle and 10 feet apart along the short sides. Measure from the centers of the blocks.

    Position a block between each pair of corner blocks so they are evenly spaced.

    Use a level to ensure all the blocks are level with one another. Add or remove gravel beneath blocks, as needed, to level the blocks.

    Tip

    If desired, add one or more blocks in the center of the rectangle. This can make the deck feel a bit more solid but isn't necessary for supporting the interior joists.

    concrete blocks
    Installing and leveling the concrete blocks

  3. Build the Outer Frame

    1. Cut standard joists: Using a circular saw or power miter saw, cut 10 pressure-treated 2x8 boards to 117 inches. These will be the standard joists.
    2. Trim end joists: Measure the two 12-foot 2x8s and, if needed, trim them to exactly 144 inches These long joists will be the end joists.
    3. Dry-fit the deck: Place the two end joists over the ends of two standard joists to create a 120-inch-by-144-inch rectangle.
    4. Assemble the frame: Drill pilot holes, and fasten the pieces with three 3 1/2-inch deck screws at each corner. Measure from the inside of one corner of the frame and make a pair of marks every 16 inches along one of the 12-foot end joists. Repeat for the other end joist.
    drilling corners
    Attaching the corners of the frame together

  4. Position and Square the Deck Frame

    Place the deck frame onto the concrete blocks so the frame parts rest over the centers of the blocks. Measure diagonally between opposing corners. Square up the frame, as needed, by pushing diagonally from opposing corners (this takes two people). When the diagonal measurements are equal, the frame is square.

    Measuring the Corner
    Positioning the frame onto the concrete blocks

  5. Check the Blocks

    Confirm that the deck frame is level and makes solid contact with each concrete block. If necessary, add or remove soil or gravel beneath blocks to adjust their height.

    Checking the blocks
    Making sure the frame is level on the concrete blocks

  6. Install the Remaining Joists

    Install the six remaining standard joists, following the layout lines. Keep the standard joists flush with the tops of the end joists, as this ensures the deck boards will lie flat.

    Attaching the remaining joists

    The Spruce

  7. Install the Deck Boards

    Lay the 12-foot-long deck boards on top of the frame, with the boards perpendicular to the joists. Drill pilot holes, then fasten the deck board to the joists with deck screws. Continue installing deck boards, spacing them about 1/8 inch apart. With the circular saw, trim the ends of the deck boards so they are even.

    Tip

    Use 2-inch deck screws for 1-inch-thick lumber. Or, for 1-1/2-inch-thick lumber, use 2-1/2-inch screws.

    Screwing the boards
    Screwing the boards to the joists

  8. Finish the Deck

    Wood decking boards should be finished with a protective deck stain or sealer when the wood is suitably dry. If left unfinished, the decking will turn gray and weather naturally. Deck boards can be painted, too, but paint wears off relatively quickly.

    As long as the frame is constructed of pressure-treated wood, it does not need to be finished.

    Staining hardwood patio deck
    Chris Bernard / Getty Images

How to Choose Materials for a Floating Deck

You have several budget-friendly choices for the floating deck's frame and deck materials:

  • Pressure-treated wood: Pressure-treated lumber is the least expensive and most durable option for the deck frame and decking boards.
  • Southern yellow pine: For decking, an upgrade from pressure-treated wood is Southern yellow pine (SYP). This wood typically has fewer knots and a better appearance than standard pressure-treated decking.
  • Cedar, redwood: Cedar and redwood are good choices for improving the deck's appearance. Despite their reputation for being naturally decay-resistant, they are not as rot-resistant as treated lumber.
  • Composite: Composite decking is made from recycled plastic and wood pulp, and it is essentially rot-proof and requires no protective finish.
FAQ
  • What are the pros and cons of a floating deck?

    The pros of a floating deck are that it is easy to build, safe, and usually does not require permits. It's also inexpensive since it uses less materials. On the downside, a floating deck may provide less property value than a permanent, attached deck.

  • Will a floating deck add value to my home?

    A well-built element such as a floating deck likely can add value to your home. But it provides less value than a permanent deck that's attached to your home.

  • Is a floating deck stable?

    A floating deck is stable because it is built no more than 30 inches above the ground. In some cases, the floating deck is even built directly on the ground on a bed of gravel.

Easy Guide to Staining a Deck by Yourself